Pick the wrong mirror and your room can look smaller, darker, and a bit off. Pick the right one and you’ll pull in light, stretch the walls, and tie the whole space together. This guide shows you exactly what to measure, what size to buy, where to hang it, and how to avoid annoying distortion and safety mistakes. Expect clear rules of thumb, fast checklists, and real rooms covered-from tiny rentals to family bathrooms.
If you landed here asking how to choose a mirror, here’s the short answer first, then the deep dive.
TL;DR - Quick Answer
- Size: For a mirror over furniture, aim for 60-80% of the furniture width. For a feature wall, go big-at least half the wall width. For a full-length mirror, 150-180 cm tall works for most adults.
- Height: Center the mirror at roughly 150-165 cm from the floor (average eye level). Over a console or vanity, leave 10-20 cm of space above the surface.
- Placement: Bounce light without creating glare. Across from a window brightens; next to a window softens. In small rooms, opposite a window or doorway adds depth.
- Quality: Choose 4-6 mm glass for crisp reflection; avoid wavy acrylic if you care about accuracy. In humid rooms, pick copper‑free, safety‑backed mirrors.
- Safety: Heavy mirrors need wall studs, a French cleat, or rated anchors. Leaners need anti‑tip straps. In Australia, follow AS/NZS 1288 and 2208 for safety glazing and installation.
Step-by-Step: Choose the Right Mirror
These steps match the jobs you’re trying to get done: get the right size, nail the style, place it for light and comfort, keep it safe, and stay on budget.
Define the job
- Outfit check? You want a full‑length (150-180 cm tall). A 40-60 cm wide mirror is fine; go wider if you need to view shoulders and hips comfortably.
- Make the room feel bigger/brighter? Choose a large wall mirror and place it where it catches daylight without blinding you, often across or diagonally from a window.
- Decor focal point? Match or contrast the frame with your finishes (black with black hardware for continuity; warm wood to soften modern spaces).
Measure the space (and the anchor piece)
- Over furniture: Width rule = 60-80% of the furniture width. Example: 120 cm console → 72-96 cm wide mirror.
- Over fireplace: Keep mirror width slightly narrower than the mantel (by 5-15 cm each side) so it looks intentional.
- Blank wall: For a balanced ‘window’ effect, aim for at least half the wall width, with even margins left and right.
- Full‑length: Leave 120-150 cm of clear standing space in front so you can step back.
- Height: Typical eye level is 150-165 cm. Center the mirror there. Over a vanity or console, leave 10-20 cm gap above the surface.
Choose shape to suit the room’s lines
- Rectangular: Clean, modern, best for narrow walls or over furniture. Vertical orientation adds height; horizontal adds width.
- Round: Softens boxy rooms, great over consoles or in small rooms where harsh angles dominate. Pick 60-90 cm diameter for most walls.
- Arch/Scalloped: Adds subtle architecture if your room lacks curves. Arches echo doorways and windows nicely.
- Organic/irregular: Trendy and playful; use one per room so it doesn’t fight other shapes.
Pick frame and finish
- Frame thickness: Slim frames feel modern and disappear; chunky frames read as furniture and can fill visual space.
- Materials: Black or brass metal feels contemporary; timber warms coastal and boho rooms; rattan brings texture; frameless is minimal and bathroom‑friendly.
- Match vs. contrast: Matching your hardware keeps things calm; contrasting the frame (e.g., black mirror with oak furniture) makes it a focal point.
Get the lighting right
- Daylight: Across from a window gives the strongest brightness boost. If your west‑facing room in Perth gets harsh afternoon sun, angle the mirror slightly or place it adjacent to reduce glare.
- Task lighting (vanity): Place sconces at eye level (about 150-165 cm from floor) and 7-10 cm from the mirror edges. Use 3000-4000K bulbs with CRI 90+ for true skin tones. Aim for 700-1600 lumens around the mirror.
- Backlit mirrors: Nice for even light and low shadows; still add overheads if you need strong task light.
Check glass quality and construction
- Thickness: 4 mm works on small mirrors; 5-6 mm resists warping on larger sizes. Thick glass = crisper reflections.
- Backing: In bathrooms or coastal areas, look for copper‑free, moisture‑resistant backing to prevent black edge creep.
- Safety: For kids’ rooms, corridors, and bathrooms, ask for safety backing (vinyl film) or toughened options that meet AS/NZS 2208. Note: many mirrors can’t be fully tempered after silvering, so safety film is common.
- Distortion test: View straight lines (door frame) from different angles. If they bow or ripple, skip it.
Plan mounting and weight
- Find studs for heavy mirrors; use a French cleat or two‑point bracket rated above the mirror’s weight.
- No studs? Use wall anchors rated for at least 2× the mirror’s weight. For plasterboard, avoid cheap hollow anchors; pick toggle or screw‑in metal anchors.
- Leaners: Use anti‑tip straps. A small wedge at the base sets a slight tilt and reduces reflections of ceiling lights.
- Bathrooms: Follow AS/NZS 1288 for selection/installation. Seal back edges against steam; never silicone over the silvered edge.
Budget smart
- Typical AU pricing (rough): 60-80 cm round or rectangle: $80-$250. 50×150 cm full‑length: $100-$350. 80×180 cm arch: $300-$800. Custom: $600-$2,000+ depending on frame and thickness.
- Save: Buy second‑hand frames and add new mirror glass. Or choose a frameless bevel for a classic look on a budget.
Match your style fast
- Minimal/Scandi: Thin black or frameless rectangle, vertical orientation.
- Coastal: White oak or rattan frames; round or arch shape to soften.
- Mid‑century: Walnut oval or pill‑shape with rounded corners.
- Industrial: Black metal frame, rectangular, maybe with exposed screws.
- Glam: Brass frame or bevelled edge; larger than average to feel luxe.
Real-World Examples and Trade‑offs
Here are quick scenarios you can copy, with the why behind each choice.
Tiny studio, low light: Hang a large, frameless 80×120 cm mirror across from the window. Mount it horizontally to stretch the width. Why: Frameless keeps visual noise low; bigger mirror pulls in light.
Rental bedroom: Choose a 160 cm leaner mirror with an anti‑tip strap into one stud. If you can’t drill much, use one strap point and a small floor wedge. Why: You avoid big holes but still get safety and a full view.
West‑facing living room (Perth heat): Place a tall mirror on the wall adjacent to the main window, not directly opposite. Why: You get brightness without late‑arvo glare or hotspots on the sofa.
Family bathroom: A 70-80% width mirror over the vanity with two sconces at eye level. Choose copper‑free, safety‑backed glass. Why: Even face lighting, correct size, and moisture resistance.
Kids’ room: 140-160 cm tall mirror with safety backing, frame with rounded corners, and two lower mounting points. Why: Lower center suits shorter eye lines; robust and safe.
Narrow entry hall: A vertical 50×120 cm mirror 20 cm above a slim console. Add a small sconce above. Why: Vertical adds height, keeps walkway clear, and gives a last‑look check.
Over fireplace: 90 cm round mirror with a slim black frame, leaving 10 cm gap to mantel and 15 cm to each side. Why: Round softens the boxy fireplace surround; proportions feel tailored.
Work‑from‑home nook: Small 50-60 cm round mirror to bounce light from the side window. Why: Lifts energy without distracting reflections on your screen.
Trade‑offs to consider
- Big mirror vs. small framing art: One large mirror brightens more; multiple small pieces give personality. If the room is dark, choose the big mirror and add art elsewhere.
- Framed vs. frameless: Frames add style and hide edges; frameless feels light and works well in bathrooms. Frameless demands neater walls and careful edge sealing.
- Acrylic vs. glass: Acrylic is lightweight and safer if dropped but can warp and scratch. Glass is heavier, clearer, and more durable long‑term.
- Leaner vs. wall‑hung: Leaners feel casual and are easy to move; wall‑hung is safer in tight spaces and rentals with kids or pets.
Checklists, Mini‑FAQ, and Next Steps
Pre‑shop checklist (1 minute)
- Room goal: check outfit / add light / focal decor / all three
- Measure: wall width, furniture width, and ceiling height
- Target size: 60-80% of furniture width, or at least half the wall width
- Shape: rectangle / round / arch / organic
- Frame: match or contrast your existing finishes
- Lighting: where’s the window; need sconces or backlit?
- Wall type: studs, masonry, or plasterboard; mounting plan
- Humidity: bathroom/coastal? choose copper‑free, safety‑backed
- Budget band: $100 / $300 / $800 / custom
Mounting checklist
- Find studs and mark eye‑level center (150-165 cm)
- Use a French cleat or two mounting points; confirm hardware rating is above mirror weight
- If no studs, pick proper wall anchors (toggle or metal screw‑in for plasterboard)
- Check for power/water lines before drilling (especially over vanities)
- Use a level; measure twice; pre‑drill once
- For bathrooms, seal the back edges per manufacturer guidance
- For leaners, attach anti‑tip straps; add a base wedge for slight tilt
Cleaning and care
- Spray cleaner onto a cloth, not directly onto the mirror-avoid liquid running into edges (per AGGA guidelines and mirror manufacturers).
- Use ammonia‑free glass cleaners or a 1:1 water-vinegar mix. Microfiber cloth only.
- Dry edges after showers to prevent black edge spots.
Mini‑FAQ
- Will a mirror really make my room look bigger? Yes. A large mirror across from or diagonal to a window creates a sense of depth and doubles visible light. The effect is strongest with floor‑to‑ceiling or very wide mirrors.
- How high should I hang a mirror? Aim for the center at 150-165 cm from the floor. Over furniture, leave 10-20 cm of gap above the top.
- What size is a proper full‑length mirror? 150-180 cm tall. Width of 40-60 cm works, but 60-80 cm is more comfortable for shoulders‑to‑hips.
- Acrylic or glass? Acrylic is light and safer to move but can warp and scratch. Glass is heavier, clearer, and longer‑lasting with better flatness.
- Can I put a mirror opposite my bed? If the reflection bothers you at night, avoid direct line of sight. Angle it slightly or place it beside the bed instead.
- Why do bathroom mirrors get black edges? Moisture reaches the silvering. Choose copper‑free, seal properly, and avoid spraying cleaner onto edges.
- Do I need an electrician for a backlit mirror? Yes, if it needs hardwiring. Ask a licensed electrician to wire to a switch and comply with bathroom zoning rules.
- What standards apply in Australia? AS/NZS 1288 (glass selection/installation) and AS/NZS 2208 (safety glazing). A licensed glazier can advise for your wall type and location.
Troubleshooting
- Distorted reflection: The glass is too thin or not flat, or the wall is bowed. Test on a flat floor; if it’s straight, pack/level the wall brackets or choose a thicker mirror.
- Glare or hot spots: Move the mirror off the direct sun path, shift it adjacent to the window, or tilt the top slightly forward.
- Looks too small now it’s up: Group with art or sconces to visually widen, or replace with a mirror 20-30% larger. In small rooms, go as big as your wall and budget allow.
- Too heavy for the wall: Use a French cleat into studs or switch to two narrower mirrors to split the load. Avoid relying on cheap plastic anchors.
- Green tint: Standard glass can have a green edge. If true color matters (makeup, wardrobe), ask for low‑iron glass.
- Rusty spots/black creep: That’s silvering damage. Keep cleaners away from edges, dry after showers, and choose copper‑free backing next time.
Quick decision helper
- If it’s going above furniture: pick 60-80% of the furniture width; center at eye level; leave 10-20 cm gap.
- If it’s for outfit checks: 150-180 cm tall; strap it; allow 120-150 cm of stand‑back space.
- If the room is dark: choose the largest mirror that fits; place across from a window.
- If it’s humid: copper‑free, safety‑backed, properly sealed edges.
You don’t need a designer’s eye to nail this. Measure, match the size and shape to the room’s lines, place it where it helps your light, and mount it like it matters. Do that, and the mirror does what it should: lift the whole room without yelling for attention.